 | how to replace/repair toilet flange |
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Question: Toilet was leaking thru downstairs ceiling. Removed toilet hoping to replace wax ring and be done. Found that previous repair person had improvised with a large screw to hold down toilet seat on one side because the flange slot that normally holds the bolt for this purpose was broken off. My question is whether to replace the whole flange or to simply add a small shim piece (PT wood or metal) to support the toilet, and use a lag bolt to secure the toilet seat on that side. The joint is probably 30 years old, and the previous repair must be at least 13 years old since it's before we became owners. The broken piece does not do much in terms of supporting the toilet, only in holding it down. My concern about replacing the whole flange is whether I have the torch capacity to do it easily. Will a normal butane torch do it? How many minutes to heat the joint? Wet rags and a spray water bottle to prevent the house from burning down? Does the newer leadfree solder used in the replacement require any special procedures/equipment? I have access both top and bottom to the joint.
Answer: A house of that age may have copper drain pipe, but more likely it is lead and beyond the skills of the average DIYer to repair. Since this is a drain, though, I don't believe lead-free solder would be required if it is copper pipe and you did undertake the repair. Lead-tin solder is still readily available, and it is somewhat easier to work with, especially on such a large joint. You'd need something a little stronger than the standard propane torch, however. But before doing anything rash, go to a hardware store and look for some flange repair fittings. These are pieces of metal that can be worked under the edges of the existing broken flange to provide a solid mount for the toilet bolt. In any event, keep in mind that you don't need a lot of force to hold a toilet in place. The weight of the toilet does most of the work, and you just want to keep the toilet from sliding around.
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