Answer: It's alot of work! I helped install a sump in a friend's place. First, be absolutely certain that you need a sump and that a sump is the right cure. For instance, a sump won't fix water coming through the cellar walls because the lot is not properly graded outside. The sump itself should be roughly the size of a 55 gal. oil drum. But we used a plastic trash barrel. You can rent an electric hammer/drill tool for about $50/day that will make chopping through the concrete floor easy. Note: You are making a hole in the floor -- check where the water level is and for what fraction of the year it is near your floor level. It turns out that you are going to move *alot* of dirt. And that dirt is going to be wet, making it heavy. Plan on having lots of help and many buckets. You are going to spill and drip on the entire path in between -- prepare for grief from the distaff side. Oh, have heavy pry bars and shovels handy. In New England we have many large rocks that have to come out. (Maybe the hammer/drill would help with this problem.) We also made a trench at the bottom of two walls that were letting in water. A 4" perforated, flexible drainage pipe was wrapped in landscape fabric for filtering, placed in the trench and connected to the sump. We set the sump pump on a couple of bricks so it wouldn't get clogged with sand and dirt which accumulates in the bottom of the sump. Use a reverse flow preventer on the sump pump output. The flexible output pipe will slide into a 1 1/4" PVC pipe which goes out through the cellar wall. In our case there was a stream about 20' away and we extended over to that about 4" under the surface of the ground. It looked nice that way and emptied out the water where it wanted to be in the first place. Of course you will have to install an electrical outlet within reach of the pump cord. Be certain to use a ground fault interrupter (GFI). Also, make a heavy top to cover your sump. Heavy so kids can't move it. Strong so rats can't chew through it.