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Slab Section Removal and Plumbing Below

Question: I have to replace a trap in a 2" cast iron drain that is set into/below a concrete slab floor. I have to remove a small, 12" by 4" area of concrete. Will a masrony blade for a circular saw and a chisel do this job? Is the concrete slab for my 2BR, single-level home likely to contain rebar, and if so, will a masonry blade cut the rebar? I'm not even sure how thick the slab is, but the bottom of the trap is 20" below the floor. Then, is a neoprene sleeve and clamps suitable for joining PVC to cast iron below concrete? Seems to me I'd want to use something as solid and long-lasting as the cast iron.



Answer: when i had a under concrete slab drain pipe break the guys that did the repairs had to hire a digging crew to dig down and under the slab from the outside of house, they then had to use a hammer drill and a chisel to break up some concrete(4 inches think in this area) and then patch it up with new cement after they put the new stuff in.. my insurance company paid for most of the cost(homeowners insurance) the agents office to me that they did not pay for this, and its just normal wear and tear on a house.. i called up some plumbing companies from the yellow pages who had ads in there that "We Work With Your Insurance Company" asked what they mean and was told by the lady on the phone that most insurance companies will pay for the work.... called back insurance comp.and insisted on them taking a claim(figured what did i have to loose) next day got a call from the reginal office and they told me that yes it is covered in the policy, they paid most of the $4600 bill, it cost me $600. If you have a slab house and a problem with the plumbing this is what they did: dig hole three feet on the outside of the house next to concrete slab and then the leak area was just all wet and the mud was like slop and they continued to dig there(they then went 30 feet along the drain pipe-probably just to make the money as they knew the insurance comp. was going to pay for the digging- if i was to do it i would have stopped right under the hole where the original break was located(that the only break i had). All my plumbing is in the outiside wall of the house, built in 1971, if your house is not older than this then you probably have all the pipes located on an ouside wall, thats so you can get to it later for repairs(and its cheaper for a plumber to put it in this way, all the pipes are in one area. so you might consider digging this three foot hole to get under the slab to get to the bottom side of the drain. and yes the rubber joints with the stainless steel clamps is what they used when they reapaired the cast iron pipes that broke and they used the PVC(black color) pipe to replace the part that was broken( actually it was from acid that a plumber put down the drain years ago....never ever put chemicals down a drain when you have a blockage.....




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